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This is the blog of Steve Burkett of Italy, Our Italy

Head On!

Two weeks ago, I brought you “The Gondola”. In that article, you saw a photo that I named “Procession”. Here it is, again.

In this photo, we see two gondole, one following the other, under arched bridges along a small canal of Venice. If you want to see how that photo was created…because yes, it was completely created from several elements, take a quick look here.

Today, I show you Procession 2, or perhaps more aptly, ‘Head On!”. Again, two gondole floating on a small canal of Venice, but this time they are traveling head on, rather than in a procession, and may collide if the gondoliers are not skilled in their craft.

This photo, like Procession, was the result of manipulation in Photoshop. When the elements of several photos are brought together in one image, it is called a ‘composite’. This composite was the result of planning well before the trip to Venice in 2012. On my shot list was my self-assignment to collect the elements of this photo. So, this was a targeted endeavor, and not some serendipitous or staked-out encounter.

Here’s how it was accomplished.

First, I had to find the right location for Head On!, so as I strolled Venice, I was on the look out for the right setting. The setting shown below caught my eye, and because I didn’t want to get home to find that I may had missed the exact layout that I wanted, I took several photos…film was expensive, but pixels are really cheap!

After reviewing the photo collection, I decided on the third one…shown below.

A bit of cropping gave my envisioned composite a base from which to work.

I didn’t want this scene to unfold during broad daylight, so I started by darkening the image a bit.

Now, I’m going to insert the first element into the composite, the gondola approaching from the right. Also, I thought that the arched watergate in the left of the image needed a bit of enhancement, so I emphasized the light within the building.

With any composite, the smallest details are important to make the photo believable…the sun angle, the color, the size, etc. In this case, the gondola needs a reflection in the water. So, that’s what I’ll do next. Subtle? Yes. But, important for believability. Unless you compare the images a few times, you may not even notice the reflection.

Now it’s time to insert the gondola approaching from the left, along with its own reflection…yes, though hard to see, it’s there.

You will note that the gondole are not as head-on as I could have made them…after all, I’m free to choose how they are aligned within the image. I made the left gondola a bit smaller than the one on the right…thus inferring that it is not in the same plane. So, they are less head on than they could be. After all, I don’t want anyone to get hurt on their romantic gondola ride.

What’s left? I’d like to crop the image to eliminate the excess water at the bottom…it’s just water and not very interesting.

Did you notice that bright, distracting bow hanging from something or other up and to the right of the watergate? That’s got to go…so it will. And, the arched watergate…I’d like to warm it up a bit with a tad more light coming from inside…and maybe give the grill work a bit of polish. Here’s the final image.

I do enjoy digitally adding a painting effect to some of my photos. So, I’ll do that for Head On!

I know, the painting is not all that obvious viewing it from this ‘distance’. Here are some crops of the photo, giving you a better idea of the brush work that I’ve employed. Clicking on the images will give you are larger view.

Back to the final image above the painted one…it’s still not moody enough for me…it’s a bit too bright for the impending drama that I want to create. It’s time to give it a bit more sinister mood.

So now, in the dark of night, and with drama and disaster impending, and after eight years, I give you ‘Head On!’.

DISCLAIMER: No one was injured in the production of this photo.

Glad to get THAT out of the way…darned lawyers.

I hope that you enjoyed seeing behind the digital curtain to see how numerous images can be composited to create a final, fine art photo.

Ciao for now,

Steve

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The Gondola

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Quando sono solo, sogno Venezia. And when I’m having those dreams of Venice, I will assuredly picture ‘the gondola’. The gondola is the iconic symbol of Venice…and its been that way for over 900 years.

What does a gondola look like? Let’s try this. Close your eyes and image a canoe. Go ahead, I’ll wait.

Ok, now…uh oh…your eyes are closed and you can’t read what I’m now writing to you. I’ll just have to wait until you’ve exhausted your dreamlike state.

Wait…

Wait…

[And while I’m waiting, I’m going to remember one of my all time favorite gondola photos that I took in Venice…but actually it is a composite of several photos, and you can see how I did it here.]

Wait…

Wait…

Welcome back, and sorry about that…I should have thought ahead about you having your eyes closed.

Now, completely erase from your mind that canoe image, because the only similarity to a gondola is that they both float (well, Ellen and I had a canoe issue where it didn’t float, but that’s a different story).

Here are some significant differences between a canoe and a gondola:

Squerarioli hand crafting a gondola in their squero (workshop)

A canoe is symmetrically straight, while a gondola is asymmetrically shaped like a banana.
A canoe is around 15-16 feet long and perhaps 35 inches wide, while a gondola is 35-feet-7-inches long and 55 inches wide.
Where a canoe is typically around 75 pounds, a gondola tips in at 1,545 pounds…yikes!
While you and your canoeing partner sit within the canoe and use paddles, the gondolier stands not within, but atop, and at the rear of the gondola, and uses a single oar.
Where standing up in a canoe is a recipe for tipping disaster, standing up in a gondola is not, and is the de facto way to ride in a gondola used as a traghetto, or ferry, to get across the Grand Canal where no bridge is close by.
And, where sitting side-by-side in a canoe (and even getting into that position without tumping over) doesn’t allow one to relax during that endeavor, there is nothing more relaxing than sitting by your loved one in a gondola as you enjoy your romantic gondola ride.

So, let’s learn more about the gondole (plural of ‘gondola’) of Venice.

History

As I mentioned above, the gondola has been associated with Venice for around 900 years.

Illustration of early-day gondola by Jost Amman

Today’s gondola is of shiny black lacquer and each is mostly identical, except for the custom-designed lounging area and some of the gondolier’s personally-applied decoration.

In days gone by, some gondole had canopies covering them, where romantic rendezvouses and political intrigue took place.

As there were no motorized vaporetti nor water taxis to carry one about, there were around 10,000 gondole bumping into each other along the Grand (and lesser) Canal.

Some were so ostentatious and of such a troublesome size that the Venetian government put its foot down and decreed that all should be black and of similar size.

Besides their size and color, there is another historical element on the prow of each gondola. This element is the ferro (or ‘iron’). The design of the ferro takes into account many aspects of the Venetian lagoon. I’ll explain the significance of the ferro shortly.

Now, to construction of the gondola.

Construction

Here is a short quiz for you - how many of the following woods are used in the construction of a gondola?

oak
fir
cherry
larch
walnut
linden
mahogany
elm

Of the 8 woods listed above…wait for it…all 8 are used in the construction of a gondola.

Here are some other facts to consider as, in the future, you close your eyes to picture a gondola, instead of a canoe.

Recently deceased master squerariolo Roberto Tramontin ready to launch a newly completed gondola

How many pieces of wood make up a gondola? 280…each cut to specific, traditional dimensions and assembled in a precise order.

How does the gondola get its banana shape? One side is 10 inches longer than the other.

Why the banana shape? To counteract the weight of the gondolier and the torque created by the gondolier using the single oar on the starboard side of the boat.

How many gondoliers are there? About 450.

Are all gondoliers men? If you had asked just a few years ago, the answer would have been ‘yes’, and that’s the way it was for 900 years. Generally, the father passed the license down to the son. But recently, 23-year-old Giorgia Boacolo made it through the 400 hour training coarse to become the first woman gondolier. You go, girl!

How many gondola ‘sheds’ or ‘squeri’ or workshops are there? There are two, though the recent death of Roberto Tramontin has placed the Squero Tramontin e Figli in jeopardy.

How many days does it take to make a single gondola? It takes 45 days with 5 squerarioli (carpenters) working full time.

How much does a gondola cost? On average, a gondola costs $61,000.

The Forcula

Without the forcula, there is no gondola…it’s as simple as that.

Many say that the forcula looks a bit like a hand, as you can see in this photo of a forcula. Maybe it looks a bit like a hand…maybe not a big bit like a hand, but maybe an itty bitty bit like a hand. Actually, I don’t see a hand at all, just kind of a wooden twisty thing.

It is sculpted from a single piece of walnut that has been aged up to 3 years. And when I say sculpted, that’s exactly how it is produced. Each forcula is designed specifically for an individual gondolier, based on their height and rowing style.

The forcula’s gamba (leg) is inserted into a hole in the gondola's deck.

And being a work of sculpted art, the forcula is detached from the gondola each evening…it is a very personal thing.

After retirement, a gondolier’s forcula can be found on their home’s mantel, as a testament to their career.

In this photo showing Debbie and Scott during a pre-dinner romantic gondola ride, you can see how the gondolier applies his oar to the forcula.

There is no connection between the oar and the forcula, as the gondolier must be able to place the oar on various parts of the forcula to achieve forward, backward, side-to-side and turning locomotion.

It’s really amazing to watch these masters shuck and jive through tiny canals, often putting a foot up on a wall to push off to help steer through difficult situations.

The Ferro

Representative parts of the gondola’s ferro

The ferro, or ‘iron’ is located on the prow of the gondola. For those of you who are not familiar with the term, the prow is the front of a boat.

Note the six forward facing prongs. These represent the six sestieri, or districts, of Venice. The rear-facing prong represents the island of Giudecca.

There is often, but not always, 3 little shrimp looking thingies interspersed between the prongs. These represent the main islands associated with Venice, which are Murano, Burano and Torcello.

The top is representative of a Doge’s cap. This is the cap of office that the Doge, or president-like-guy of the Venetian empire, would wear.

The photo also shows some of the other Venetian iconic symbols that have been woven into the ferro’s design.

Decorative Elements

Here you can see a number of embellishments that the gondoliers are allowed to personalize. Many of the accoutrement feature a golden seahorse-styled sculpture.

A Squero - Or Gondola Workshop

These photos are of the Squero di San Trovaso, which we glimpsed during our quiet Venetian walk just recently.

The Gondolier’s Platform

Notice in these two photos how the gondoliers stands near the rear of the gondola, and they are somewhat cantilevered above the water.

Singing Gondoliers

Do you want a singing gondolier? They don’t do that. But, you can arrange ahead of time for a singer to join you on your gondola ride…usually accompanied by an accordionist. Plan to pay a good bit more.

But hey, avoid the cost and do your own singing. Here you can see Ellen, Craig and Leslie singing their hearts out as we glide along the Grand Canal. As we couldn’t think of the words to any particular song that we all knew (one time we had to resort to ‘White Christmas’!), the iPhone comes in handy.

Parting Shots

I’ll leave you with some photos from some of our favorite gondola rides.

That’s it for today folks. I hope that you’ve enjoyed seeing how gondole are made and used…and how they are so much different from canoes.

And, as you take your own romantic gondola ride, look back at your gondolier…it just may be me oaring away behind you, as together, we ply the canals of Venice.

For a small tip, I’ll sing for you…and then for a bit larger tip, I’ll stop singing! See how that works?

Ciao for now.

Steve

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A Typical Quiet Walk in Venice

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“Join me now for a quiet walk in Venice’s Dorsoduro sestiere, with pleasant sights along he way”

It’s time to slow our lives down a bit and have a simple, quiet day in out-of-the-way locations of Venice. Tag along as I take a walk through quiet Dorsoduro, ending the day with a pleasant meal…and more.

For sure, there is a lot of hustle-and-bustle in Venice, especially in the districts of San Marco and San Polo, but you and I will be spending the day exploring Dorsoduro.

We plan to visit the Gallerie dell'Accademia (Venice’s art gallery), and have lunch somewhere along the way…though we know not where, as we start. There’s a mask shop I’ve heard about and into which I’d like to take a peek. And, if I have time, there’s Campo Santa Margherita, which is a great place to sit under a tree and do a bit of people watching. Not sure where we’ll go after that, but who cares, right?

So, let’s get going!

We Begin Our Walk

We need to get to Dorsoduro from the Hotel Flora, where we are staying in the sestiere of San Marco. We get to Dorsoduro by passing through Campo Santo Stefano, and then crossing over the Academia bridge. It’s taken us awhile to get away from the area of our hotel, as so many of our favorite shops are situated along Calle Larga XXII Marzo. Like La Ricerca, which we never pass up without going in to browse, purchase, and visit. His mother a master bookbinder 40 years ago, he keeps the tradition alive using a small group of gifted leather and bookbinding craftsmen to supply his small shop. Six years older in the right photo, but still the same great smile!

We pull ourselves away from the craft shops along the way until finally, we are in the quiet Dorsoduro.

As we cross the Accademia bridge, we note the ‘lover’s lock’ that Ellen and I placed there on a previous trip!

Actually, we don’t do that sort of thing. We put it in the same class as graffiti. For this photo, I borrowed the photo from Helen’s and Georg’s lock.

For your information, the Accademia bridge has been completely redesigned and reconstructed to prevent such appliques. Sorry Helen & Georg, no more displays of your true love.

Gallerie dell'Accademia

As the Gallerie dell'Accademia is right before us as we descend from the bridge, we may as well go in to see the magnificent art pieces that hang there.

A discussion of the Accademia will be held for another day, but I’ll just point out one art work that we’ll see on our visit today. It’s Giovanni Bellini’s “Madonna and Child between Saints Catherine and Magdalene”, shown here in a surreptitiously captured photo from a previous visit. There is such beautiful brushwork in this 23”x42” work of art.

We’ve spent a good bit of time in the Accademia, and we feel the pangs of hunger. It’s time to wander toward that lunch that I’d promised you.

We’ve heard good things about Ai Gondolieri, but that is not in the general direction that we had planned to wander…we want to get to the large Campo Santa Margherita to see what we can see. So, we’ll head west.

An Unusual Wine Shop

I’ll snap some photos of the sights whilst we stroll the calle of Venice. Like this wine shop where you bring in your own bottle and self-serve fill it with wine, right from the demijohn. I checked my pockets and didn’t have any bottles on me, so I’ll have to rely on whatever restaurant I find for us along the way.

Bridges Make For Hard Work In Venice

There are 409 bridges in Venice, and one rarely finds one that doesn’t have steps. And as there are no land-based vehicles in Venice, deliveries are made with hand trucks…like this one. This adds to the cost of goods. And it creates delivery men with great leg strength.

See the little wheels just to the front of his rubber tires? That’s the secret to working one’s way up and over the steps.

Stay Tuned for Next Week’s Article

Then here’s a rather non-descript door that I might be able to transform later for you. Maybe even next week. So, be sure to come back to see what I do with this blah snapshot.

A Quick Pharmacy Stop

Here we find a pharmacist, taking a telefonino break.

OK ladies, and you gentlemen interested in maintaining a youthful look, you might want to pick up some of that DÒLIVA advertised in the window of the farmacia. It suggests that you should ‘love your skin’, and promises it will contribute to the care of all 360° of your face. It’s amazing what olives can do for one’s complexion.

Floating Market

What’s this? A floating market..selling fresh produce from the mainland. And, not all is what we see in our own markets.

Ahoy, Matey!

As we take a sharp left to avoid falling into the Rio de San Trovaso canal and losing that bag of Doliva that you’re carrying, we see a father taking his two children on a water-bourn adventure. Are pirates in their future?

I doubt that we will see them in that little boat later on the busy Grand Canal.

Where The Gondole Go For Repair

Now we are along the canal known as Rio de San Trovaso. With a bit of guide-book research, we find that Rio de San Trovaso is the canal from which the gondole of Venice are maintained and repaired. Here is a photo of Campo San Trovaso, where the gondole are dragged up onto dry land (at least it’s dry at this moment, and a bit more on that later).

Seeing this rare site gives me the idea to write a blog article about the ubiquitous gondole soon…stay tuned for that.

And Now, Lunch…Finally!

Along this canal, we find a likely candidate for lunch. Taverna San Trovaso seems to be just what we are looking for…quiet and out of the way.

Here is the entrance to Taverna San Trovaso. Definitely unassuming…but the warm wood promises a warm-inside experience.

Here’s a photo from their website that well shows the inside first floor…which is less formal than the upstairs dinner spot.

Here’s what I’ve ordered for lunch.

First was crudo, stracchino. This translates to raw meat (raw, but well aged and cured prosciutto…you can read more about that in my previous article on Italian meats) and cheese. In this case, the cheese is stracchino (strak-KI-no). It’s a type of Italian cow's-milk cheese that’s eaten very young. It has a soft, creamy texture and normally a mild and delicate flavor. Here is my plate.

You can see that I’ve got a basket of bread and packaged grisini to go along with my crudo. And, I’m sure that you didn’t miss the small carafe of vino rosso. And those who know me well searched and found a can of Coca-Cola Light along the right edge of the photo.

As I’m into just a lite lunch today because I’m saving up my calories for a nice dinner at Antico Martini later tonight, I’ll just have a simple salad…this one with mozzarella, tomato and arugula, topped with a few savory olives. In Italy, mozzarella is made from the milk of water buffalo, and is referred to as ‘bufala’.

That about sums up my typical lunch for today. On other days, I might have worked in fresh seafood, because it is definitely fresh here in Venice.

And speaking of summing up, what has all this come to in Euros? Let’s check out the tab.

That’s a grand total of 30 Euro. I know you are about to say ‘Ouch!’, but remember that everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, brought in and consumed in Venice is brought in by boat. Your wallet? Don’t leave home without it.

And, did you notice the wine and the Coca-Cola for the same price? On a budget, might as well drink the wine.

That last charge of 2 Euro is the ‘cover charge’. This is your ‘sitting down to eat’ charge. Many times, if you eat at the bar (and don’t mess up a table cloth and use the normal wait staff), you will not have a coperto charge.

You are asking, ‘Was your server a woman?’. Yes!

This has been a rare experience in our trips to Italy. So, I’ve decided that documentation is in order!

High Water Mark

We are fortunate that it is not the season of aqua alta, or high water. That season is generally around November, when tides and winds blowing to the northwest up the Adriatic pile a good bit of unwanted water into the Venetian lagoon. Take another look at the entrance to Taverna San Trovaso above, and then look at the photo below (which I snapped from a photo on the wall of the restaurant).

There’s danger in aqua alta! There are many calle that end at a small canal, with no wall or railing to keep you from falling into the canal. When the water is at a normal level, you can see that the calle ends, and you can avoid an unplanned dip. But when the water is high, and has flooded the calle upon which you walk, beware, as there may be a canal, and not an intersection with another calle. Locals know their way around, we don’t.

Let’s continue on our stroll high-and-dry through the calle of the Dorsoduro district.

A Friendly Maker of Venetian Masks

Here’s a friendly craftsman. This gentleman is the maker of the famous Venetian masks that are seen during Venice’s Carnevale (the equivalent of the New Orleans’s Mardi Gras).

Here he’s sitting outside his shop on this sunny day, forming what will become a festive mask.

Shhhh!

It must be a slow day for the gondola trade. Just so you know, I didn’t disturb him as I tiptoed by.

However, it’s not a completely unproductive day for gondoliers, as we can see as this happy couple seem to be enjoying their afternoon ride.

It’s Time for Reflection

Now, we pause to reflect on our day thus far…

Venetians, Doing What Venetians Do

And then there are the Venetians, going about their daily Venetian routines.

Joining In On A Fashion Shoot

Ahh, here’s a fashion shoot. I think I’ll join in. She looks beautiful, doesn’t she.

Hmmm. I seem to remember joining in on a photo shoot yesterday with this same model…that shoot was at the Rialto bridge. Yes, I think it’s the same beautiful model…though with a different wedding dress.

Is Anyone Home?

And here are the door bells for the Polizzi, Gervasoni, and Agnoli families. I wonder what the architect was thinking about when he created this design? Hmmm, I wonder.

An Afternoon Gathering of Friends

In a quiet place, we see two friends having a nice afternoon chat, both with a cappuccino, if I remember correctly.

Souvenir Shopping

And now a shop window, where one can purchase a souvenir hat to commemorate one’s visit to Venice.

Interested in Alfresco Dining?

And here, a typical al fresco dining situation in Venice…outside, but still classy.

We Need To Get A Move On!

Uh oh, that table setting reminds me that I need to get back to the Hotel Flora to freshen up and get ready for that dinner at Antico Martini. I’d hoped to get to Campo Santa Margherita to get supplies for a picnic tomorrow on the super-quiet and out-of-the way island of Torcello. I’ll have to pick up picnic items early tomorrow at the Rialto Market.

Antico Martini is a restaurant that has been in continuous operation since the 1700s and has seen a lot of Venetian history. And, I must say that I also made Antico Martini history, as years ago, I was the first person to ever make a reservation there using the internet! This distinction garnered fresh flowers on the table, as well as prosecco on the house! Thank you, Emilio.

So, it’s back to the hotel. Walking briskly along the Grand Canal, it starts to sprinkle just a bit. And here, I learn what the Venetians do as they drive their boats in the rain. Just what the rest of use do as we raise our umbrellas as we walk.

Stepping Out For Dinner And More

I’ve gathered the group at the Hotel Flora and we are heading out to dinner.

And, here we are at our favorite Venetian restaurant, Antico Martini…always a pleasant and relaxing meal after a long day in Venice.

Are we in the right place? I believe we are.

Scott and I peruse the wine list at Antico Martini, which has many tasty offerings.

Do you recognize the winged lion of San Marco on the wine-menu cover?

It’s time for a toast to friends not present…which unfortunately, includes you..this time.

Our dinner fare is not as simple as that at Taverna San Trovaso, but I was able to have another bufala salad…this one a caprese.

Our After-Dinner Destination

After dinner, one does not go to the movies in Venice…one goes to Piazza San Marco…and should one choose, dancing.

Only when we hear the campanile’s Marangona bell toll midnight do we leave…and then reluctantly. And then, It’s back to the hotel for a restful night’s sleep in this quiet, idyllic hotel.

I’m glad you got to spend the day walking the quiet calle of Dorsoduro with me. But now, at the end of the day, it’s time to spend a bit of time with my bride.

I hope that you enjoyed our stroll through the calle of Venice’s quiet Dorsoduro sestiere. And, Dorsoduro is just one of six sestieri that make up the amazing floating city of Venice. Maybe tomorrow we’ll run into each other in Cannaregio’s Ghetto. Or, maybe we can relive Venice’s sailing days at Castello’s Arsenale. Wherever you may roam in Venice, I know that you, too, will create many memories along the way.

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Your Murano Glass Experience

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“As I explain below, booking a tour has its benefits.”

Today, we visit a typical Murano-island glass ‘fornace’, or glass furnace…in other words, a glass making workshop. Though accompanying photos are from a recent visit to Fornace Estevan Rossetto, the process of visiting any fornace is pretty much the same. So, I’ll just focus on the generic adventure of visiting a Murano glass factory, or fornace. We’ve been to four glass factories/foundries/furnaces/fornaces over the years, and each experience has been mostly the same…and fun…and productive (i.e. we bought something that we treasure).

The Island of Murano

Glass blowing businesses in Venice are located on the island of Murano, not the main conglomerate of islands and canals known as Venice proper. The aerial photo shows the proximity of Murano to Venice. It is about a mile north of Venice, and it is about a mile in diameter.

In between Venice and Murano is the island of San Michele, which is Venice’s cemetery island.

Like Venice proper, Murano is a whole bunch of small islands linked by a lesser number of bridges. So, like the 5,000 inhabitants of Murano, you need to know your way around the labyrinth of bridges and calles to get where you want to be.

Want to venture to Murano? The absolute best way to experience the glass-blowing arts of Murano is to take a tour of one of the many facilities there. And, as I explain below, booking a tour has its benefits.

A Forced Move to the Island of Murano

Glass makers in the populous Venice proper were forced by the Venetian Republic to move to Murano because of the fear of fire. In contrast to today’s Venice, most of Venice’s buildings were wooden in the 13th century. So in 1291, off to the less-populated island of Murano they went.

The move wasn’t such a bad thing for these mobile glass makers. Their prominence soared as they became more important to Venice’s European status. Statutory privileges abounded, as they were immune from prosecution, were able to marry off their daughters to affluent Venetian families…and, they looked really nifty because they were allowed to wear swords when others were denied this privilege.

Though they looked really cool wearing a sword and having certain immunities, there was a trade off. They were physically bound to the Venetian lagoon. They were not allowed to leave for fear that their uniquely perfect glass making techniques would be shared with others. Thus, the monopoly on high quality glass making was protected for centuries…until some were lured away to conduct their trade and share their knowledge…shame on them!

Getting to Your Murano Island Glass-Making Experience

There is only one way to get between islands in the Venetian lagoon…and that’s by boat. But alas, there are many types of boats in the lagoon, as you can see here in my whimsical composite titled, ‘Busy Day on the Grand Canal’.

The most prominent for our own liquid movement opportunities are the vaporetto, gondola, and water taxi. A vaporetto is basically a water bus. It is the most prominent means of travel within Venice, and between the many other islands in the Venetian lagoon. Here are a couple of photos of vaporetti (vaporetti is plural of a vaporetto).

[As usual, you can click on an image to get a larger view]

A vaporetto is ok…and you will probably use one to get around on the Grand Canal and to get to the other islands of Venice. However, it isn’t necessary to take a vaporetto to Murano…but you might need one to get back…keep reading to see what I mean.

How about a gondola? Well, its a long ways out there to Murano (again, about a mile) and the water can get pretty choppy, and I doubt if you could talk a gondolier into making the journey…and do you want them to wait for you? I have seen gondola in choppy waters like these folks are experiencing, but not often.

The water taxi is the ultimate way to get to your glass making experience on Murano. The water taxi are sleek and comfortable. Which of these two boats is a water taxi that you would want to ride to Murano? I’ll let you figure that out!

The taxi drivers (taxiliers?) take great pride in their wooden boats and they keep them pristinely waxed, like this one reflecting a palazzo on the Grand Canal.

Here are friends Debbie and Scott enjoying the beginning of their ride to Murano.

So, how do you wrangle a water taxi ride to and from Murano?

Arranging Your Glass-Making Tour

You could take a ride on your own to Murano without taking a ‘tour’, but I’m not sure how it would go for you. Which of the glass showrooms has a glass master working today? When do you need to arrive to get the full experience? Etc?

Let’s do it this way. You will find Murano glass-making tour hawkers in various parts of Venice…primarily the places where people are most gathered. Maybe the tour is reputable, but then maybe it isn’t. Here’s the best way to arrange for you tour. Use your hotel.

The front desk at your hotel is a great place to start…or the concierge, if there is one. The hotel employees have access to glass-making facilities that they trust…after all, they want your tour to increase your trust of their hotel, not detract from it. So, just ask at the hotel the day before you want to visit Murano. Give them a general time, like morning or afternoon. And be sure to ask whether you will be provided with water taxi transportation, as that’s the whole point of going through your hotel. They will make the appropriate arrangements for you…including the exact time and place you will need to be waiting for your transportation.

Your Glass-Making Adventure

If you’ve followed the advise above, you will be whisked in comfort (no matter the weather) to a glass-making fornace of your hotel’s choice. In our experience, they are pretty much the same.

For our tour of Fornace Estevan Rossetto, you can see in the photo where we arrived…at the dock. The fornace/furnace/glass-blowing-area is at the entrance where the dock terminates into the building. You can see that the whole facility is linear…and we have experienced this at most all of the facilities. You will go from the creation area to the showroom, where you can purchase your glass keepsake.

We were greeted by this lovely young lady…perhaps named Pia…if not, my apologies.

Our first stop is the room containing the fornace. If it is a bit chilly outside, you will be comfortable within the workshop.

We’ve arrived at the beginning of the Master’s production of a vase. Between the 2nd and 3rd photo, he actually blew into the iron pipe to form a round shape, and he subsequently used one of his tools to deftly create the neck of the vase, as seen in the 3rd photo. Then, as if by magic, he removed the vase, flipped it end-for-end, and re-applied it to the pipe. In the 4th photo, you can see that he is now working on the fluted top of the vase. And in the 5th photo, he is crimping the top of the vase as a design element.

In this next series, the Master is working on a mystery piece. He first goes to the furnace where a glob of glass is daubed onto the blow pipe, as seen in the 2nd photo. In photos 3 and 4, he begins to create a still unrecognizable shape. You can see the almost completed horse in the 5th photo. After bending legs this way and that (yes, it is still malleable), and firmly setting the horse down upon a flat surface to be sure that the two hind legs and the tail make a stable setting (no pun intended on the word ‘stable’), we see the finished product, along with its cousin completed just a bit later. In all, it took the Master less than 5 minutes to complete one horse.

I’ve used the term ‘Master’ a few times, and the term is not used lightly. It takes years to become a Master glass craftsman, after creating hundreds of lower-quality touristy pieces as an Apprentice.

Now, to the Showroom

After watching a Master create something right before your eyes, you will be directed to the showroom. Here you can see hundreds of pieces created at the particular fornace. Here are some photos from the Fornace Estevan Rossetto website.

The Masters of Murano are most famous for their chandeliers. And, they are surely most excellent works of art…and they cast nice light within your room, for sure. Here are a few photos of the Fornace Estevan Rossetto Murano-glass chandeliers.

And here are a couple that we had in our bedrooms during our last visit to Italy.

Beautiful! I know, right?

Getting Back to Venice-Proper

Of course, as you know, you can always take a vaporetto back. But, there is a better way. However, this better way can be a bit expensive.

What’s the trick? Buy something in the showroom. I’m not sure exactly how much you have to buy, but we’ve managed a water-taxi ride back each time…well, on the last trip we wanted to eat lunch on Murano after our showroom purchase, so Fornace Estevan Rossetto provided their boat to take us a ways for lunch at Trattoria Busa alla Torre. After lunch, we amble-shopped toward the closest vaporetto stop to return to Venice.

So, what does it take to get a water taxi ride back? Here are some things we have purchased over the years that earned us that ride.

The item in the first photo is 15” across and 12” high. Our salesfriend, Alivesi, suggested that we could use it as a margarita glass! Alivesi had this bowl etched on the bottom with ‘BURKETT Murano 18-9-1997’…he said that this would make it an heirloom! (BTW in Italy when writing out a date in digital format, the day comes before the month) The white-glass chalice or bowl in the 4th photo is one of the most exquisite pieces that we’ve ever seen. The white-on-clear rods had to be built up in two different patterns before all was expertly fused together into this work of art. I’m going to the dining room to gaze at this particular piece……OK, I’m back.

Speaking of Alivesi, here is a humourus anecdote from our trip in 1997.

During the 1997 trip to Murano, our friends Mike and Judy Ponsford were with us. We had a morning tour of one of the fornace, starting about 10am. After visiting the workshop, we entered the showroom. When Alivesi recognized that we were going to be purchasers rather than just lookers, he brought out his most effective negotiation tool…a bottle of nice red wine. Who cared that it was now about 10:45am? Not us! Mike and Judy had picked out about a dozen items for consideration. Mike would put a few items in a cluster and ask, “How much?”. He repeated this a half-dozen times with different clusters. He finally reached around the whole grouping of items and quoted a price with which he would be comfortable. Alivesi was taken aback a bit and suggested that, “Signore Ponsford, your arms are much too long!”. To complete the story, after payment and providing shipping information (don’t try to pack your purchase in your luggage), we went out onto the dock to await our water taxi ride back into Venice. Alivesi came out onto the dock to let us know that the boat would be here in about 10 minutes, and then he asked, “Would you like red or white while you wait?”…we opted for another round of red! This was a truly fun adventure to the island of Murano.

I hope you enjoyed our tour to a fine-glass producing fornace. If it isn’t absolutely clear to you how to arrange for and get out to your tour, I would be happy to make the arrangements when we are there together…we enjoy every visit to Murano!

Ciao for now,

Steve

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102 Blog Articles...But Who's Counting?

Index of Articles

That’s right…102! I had no idea that I had put out over 100 blog articles until I counted them this week. I’ve really been a bit chatty, haven’t I?!

I have enjoyed every minute in the production of these articles, mostly about my favorite place — Italy. ‘Why do you do this?’, you ask. Because I want you to be stimulated through my writing and photos to visit Italy yourself. And, as an added benefit, I get to travel voyeuristically along the way as I write and go through photos from great times gone by.

“I absolutely love doing this, and I certainly hope that you enjoy my blog articles, and that you find them helpful in some way”

Italy is a place with beautiful scenery highlighted by mountains, plains, coastlines and lakes…a prolific history of art and culture (I know that you’ve heard of Michelangelo and the Roman Empire)…vineyards and their wineries producing the world’s best wines, like Brunello…authentic (it has to be, right?) Italian food…and a loving, smiling, happy people.

Today, I thought I would give you of my ‘Top 10’ articles. I’ve categorized them into ‘Visiting a Particular Place’, ‘Experiences We’ve Enjoyed’ {that you would, too), and ‘Helpful Travel Tips”. These are my favorites because of memories of the times and places involved, be they humorous, joy-filled, frustrating, or whatever — or because I felt that they were particularly informative in preparation for your own upcoming Italy trip.

If one of the descriptions catches your eye, go ahead and link to the article so that you can enjoy a small slice of Italy, too.

[OK, I have a confession to make. There are actually 12 articles listed below…I just couldn’t pare it down to 10…sorry about that]

Each listing below has a clickable bolded heading that takes you to the original article.

Visiting A Particular Place

Stay Here, Eat Here, Drink Here: Banfi

A beautiful Tuscan day at the Banfi pool

This article lays out for you the full Banfi experience that you will just have to live through yourself one day. We’ve visited the Castello Banfi twice and found the experience to be absolutely wonderful. The tour of the Banfi winery is outstanding. And then there is the Castello Banfi itself…a must see, as well as a must stay. Dining? Yes, you have your choice of the informal La Taverna, as well as the fabulous La Sala dei Grappoli. The enoteca where you can taste and then purchase wine? The largest and most beautiful we’ve seen — and we’ve seen many. Published on May 24, 2016.

A Visit to Villa Cimbrone

The view along the walk from Ravello to Villa Cimbrone

If you will be visiting the Amalfi coast, with its breathtaking mountainous backdrop, you absolutely need to journey up those mountains to the the town of Ravello. It sits high above the town of Amalfi and has spectacular views from the Belvedere. The gardens are charming and there are several restaurants between the town and the Cimbrone Gardens from which to choose, like our selection, Il Flauto di Pan. Published June 7, 2016.

Renato Ratti Winery

Talk about a fabulous and unique winery and visit thereto! This Piemonte winery has been environmentally inserted into the side of the hill upon which the town of La Mora sits. Gravity provides an energy-saving way to transport the developing wine from vinification to storage. The grape of this Piemonte winery is the Nebbiolo and their top wine is Barolo, of course. Our tasting was of vintage Barolo wines going as far back as 1998, which gave us a personal and up-close education on a wine’s tannin, fruit and color over time. Published September 17, 2019.

Stay Here: Borgo San Felice

There is a beautiful place to stay and eat in the heart of Tuscany, and it is the Borgo San Felice. A friend had stayed here and highly recommended it…we are glad he did! The owners basically purchased a small Tuscan town and converted it into a marvelous resort hotel experience. From the ancient chapel to the modern swimming pool, we enjoyed it all during our two visits there. And the food of their Ristorante Poggio Rosso was delicious, whether at breakfast or dinner. Published January 12, 2016.

Stumbling Upon Something Magnificent

Just what was it that we stumbled upon? It was a church sitting high on a hillside overlooking Lago Lugano, just west of Lago di Como. Oh how dumbstruck we were when we opened the doors of the church of Albogasio Inferiore in the small, lakeside town of Albogasio-oria. They say that one can’t judge a book by its cover, and that goes too for churches. The inside has beautifully painted fresco walls and ceilings, as well as other gorgeous ornamentation. Published July 28, 2015.

Experiences We’ve Enjoyed

One Fine Day

The setting is the Amalfi Coast. The conveyance was a 38’ Itama boat, captained by a friendly Gian-Carlo. The day was wonderful. This is the quintessential way to see the Amalfi Coast — by boat. We cruised in luxury with prosecco in hand. We swam the White and Green Grottos. We dined waterside on the Isle of Capri. And every bit of this day was perfect. Published September 29, 2015.

Enjoying Italy-Bought Wine

It’s strange how certain things can trigger memories of the past. We had that experience one lazy day…and those memories were certainly fond ones. What was it that triggered these great memories? It was wine, of all things. It was a wine that we had tasted at lunch in Radda in Chianti and one that we subsequently purchased at a winery in Tuscany. The setting for this article is our living room…in front of a roaring fire…with good book in one hand and a good wine in the other. Published February 2, 2017.

Wild Goose Chase

I’ve chased a wild goose or two, and I’m sure that you have, too. This incident relates to the day we bought a nice wine, as discussed in the article just above. We were on our way to a highly praised dinner…as praised on Trip Advisor. What we found when we arrived at the very small hilltown of Poggio alla Croce was an unexpected mystery. We had a reservation that I had managed to pull off in Italian…at least I thought I had. Find out what happened and how our evening managed to end. Published February 2, 2016.

Your Romantic Gondola Ride

If you’ve been to Venice and you haven’t ridden in a gondola, then you haven’t really been to Venice. The ubiquitous gondola is the iconic symbol of Venice. Your gondola experience should be a romantic one. This means that there is a certain time for your ride…a time that is best for reasons more than just romance. And, as each time has its place, I give you a suggestion on the best place to start (and end) your ride. Published July 12, 2016.

Helpful Travel Tips

Getting There: Bellagio

Bellagio is undoubtedly the most charming town we have visited, and its important how you get there! It sits on the end of a peninsula on Lake Como. You can auto there, but the road is twisty-turny and you may arrive with a bit of fuzzy brain. You can arrive by train…kind of…at least you will be close, but will require a ferry ride from Varenna. And you can arrive by boat…but not just any boat. You definitely don’t want the hydrofoil. What you want is the slow boat from the town of Como. It’s a slow ride and it is absolutely beautiful. Published August 2, 2016.

Another Way Into Italy

Of course you can fly directly to Italy, but there is a way that you might find to be a lot more fun…and relaxing. Why not start your Italy adventure in Switzerland?! You start in Zurich and take one of three trains into Italy. That has been our favorite way because it is a fabulous way to overcome your jet lag…as well as seeing the beautiful Swiss countryside. Published July 30, 2019.

Please, Thank You, and Where's the Bathroom

Don't let the fear of not knowing the Italian language keep you from Italy. Our experience has shown that for most of the places that we go (i.e. not too far off the beaten path), English is well spoken. I do recommend the joy of giving Italian a try, as it’s kind of fun to order a light breakfast by saying, “Pane tostata con burro e marmellata di arance”. But for sure, don’t let the lack of parlando Italiano keep you from Italy. Published August 14, 2016.

Now you know what I know — that being that the above are my favorite article posts. Trust me when I say that it was super difficult to pare them down to those twelve.

I absolutely love doing this, and I certainly hope that you enjoy my blog articles, and that you find them helpful in some way. If a trip to Italy is in your future…and I certainly hope it is…then the article ‘A Trip to Italy in Your Future? Read On!’ is a guide to using the Index of Articles to help you plan for your trip.

And, I really would love to see you there in beautiful Italy! But, in the meantime…

Ciao for now,

Steve

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