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Eating in Italy - Antipasto

Two weeks ago, you learned perhaps more-than-you-would-ever-want-to-know about the types of dining options it Italy, the Italian menu, and the first course of a typical Italian meal, the apertivo. Today, I will delve into what can be the most creative of the menu sectors, the antipasto.

I count bread as an antipasto…and Italy unarguably has the best bread in the world

For years (well, until two weeks ago) I thought the word antipasto (the plural is antipasti) was suggesting something anti, or against, pasta. Boy, was I wrong. Antipasto actually translates to “before the pasta”. So, it’s before, and not against. I’m greatly relieved that there is not conflict among the offerings on the Italian menu…things are so much more peaceful than that in Italy.

Let’s think of an antipasto as an appetizer, hors d'oeuvre, or starter. And, let’s think of a charcuterie board that you might put together in your home. So, instead of shrimp cocktail and maybe something that’s been fried on an American appetizer menu, let’s taste things like carpaccio, salami/salumi, peperoncini, peperone, olives, mushrooms, anchovies, artichoke hearts, a bruschetta of toasted bread and a yummy tomato salsa, prosciutto, figs, and such. And be sure to put your favorite Italian cheeses in the mix, like burrata, mozzarella and a salty parmigiana.

Yes, this is our actual antipasti board at Castrum Wine Bar & Bistrò in Castelrotto, north of Verona

Where in Italy do you imagine yourself right now? Think on it…I’ll give you a moment.

OK then, there is probably a regional-specific variation in the antipasto where you are voyeuristically located. Are you somewhere along the coast? The Amalfi coast is a great place to occupy your mind for a few moments, or any other coastal location will do in a pinch. What you might find there is some sort of saltwater fish, like branzino (sea bass). Branzino is the most important fish of the Mediterranean, and you may find just a bit of it amongst the antipasti in front of you.

If you are lucky enough to be thinking about the lake district, perhaps you are staying on the shores of Lake Como, or Lake Gardo, or Lake Maggiore, or lake something else. Here you might find a bit of freshwater fish with the other items of your antipasti mélange.

Maybe you are in the southern regions of Italy and that meat on your plate is a soppressata or nduja [more on these particular Italian meats here]. But did you think of northern Italy? There you will most definitely find prosciutto on your plate [learn all about prosciutto in a previous article here]. Here are a couple of photos of prosciutto con melone (melon).

What do real Italian antipasti look like? All of the photos are from our real-life experiences.

Just below you see a contrast in apertivi. To the left is a massive, but inexpensive (€12), amount of Italian meats, along with a spinaci (spinach) covered omelets (yes, little spinach omelets) that we enjoyed at Osteria dell’Unione in Treiso. Next, we see prosciutto with a bit of caprese (tomato, mozzarella, and basil) as our antipasti in Tirano. Then, at Osteria degli Amici in Stresa, a simple caprese antipasto, decorated with an aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar) drizzle around the edge of he plate. On the right, you see a more delicate presentation from Enoteca della Valpolicella, in Fumane.

Not all antipasti are rustic, as you can see by looking at these two salads we were served at Pisi, in Venice…right on the Grand Canal.

And then, there’s the antipasto that we prepared ourselves in a wonderful cooking class in Piemonte.

Antipaso from our cooking class at *Per Tutti I Gusti*

See the antipasto below that we enjoyed to start our lunch? It is a simple bowl of tomato puree with a bit of burrata and basil, finished with a drizzle of olive oil. Kinda like a liquid caprese, right? Simple…yes? Tasty? Oh my goodness, it is the reason we returned for dinner the next evening. Enoteca della Valpolicella is a gem of a dining experience! It was so good that it has its own article here!

This *Enoteca della Valpolicella* liquid caprese was heavenly!

I have yet to write about the fabulous Italian cheeses…but I’ll get there soon. But, just as you will find variations in meats and fish based on locality, you will find that there are regionally significant cheeses that could very well (and should) be on your antipasto plate.

This ends the discussion of the antipasto course. But, now it’s time to confess to a blunder on my part!

Mi Dispiace! Another Word on the Apertivo

Ellen toasting to Csaba’s birthday by enjoying a wine apertivo with Dennis, Patty, and friends at Osteria Maria Luisa

I’m sorry! And, I am so embarrassed to say that in the previous article on the Apertivo, I failed to mention just regular ole wine as an apertivo.

Today, I’m here to rectify that huge mistake. I’ve added wine to the apertivi discussion in that article. You can make sure I did by clicking HERE.

That’s it for today’s reveal of the antipasto. Stay in touch for the next Eating in Italy article on the primi! Until then, I say…

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Transforming a Blah Green Door to Evening Blue

For the benefit of the several new readers, I don’t just write about things Italian…I also have a ‘Print Store’ on this website. In that shop are many photos of doors and windows of Italy. The time that I take to process the snapshots that I’ve taken in Italy into fine-art photos for you is my ‘happy time’.

“Yesterday a friend asked, ‘When was the last time you were in Italy?’ I replied, ‘I’m in Italy every day.’ ”

— Steve Burkett

The centuries-old buildings of Italy are a fabulous testament to the Italian craftsmen of old. However, because of the buildings’ ancient stone and plaster construction, adding modern conveniences like water and electricity often blemish the otherwise beautiful and charming façades. I want you to see these marvelous palazzos and common buildings in their pre-modernized state. So, what I do is remove blemishes through the magic of Photoshop to bring you the Italy of yesteryear.

Today, I give you a simple example of my digital architectural restoration. The door and façade to be transformed was photographed in Venice.

Where I Start

As always, I start with the original photo. My photos will always appear as blah when downloaded to my computer. When using a professional digital camera, one has the obligation to save photos in what is known as a “RAW” format. Saving photos in RAW format allows a much greater range of subsequent digital processing than a JPEG image from a typical camera, like your smartphone. But the tradeoff is that the JPEG format looks much better initially than an unedited RAW photo.

Enough said…and if you are interested, you can see more in a previous article of JPEG versus RAW which goes into more depth here.

Now, the Transformation

This original snapshot is all wonky, isn’t it? Because I had to capture the façade in the tight quarters of a narrow Venetian calle, I took the photo using a 14mm lens, which is an extremely wide-angle lens. A wide-angle lens will create distortion. So, I’ll have to get to work by straightening up this scene a good bit.

The original image, with significant distortion

In this second version, much, but not all, of the distortion has been resolved.

Just a bit more work puts things in proper perspective. And that note about mail delivery that’s been taped to the door? It had to go.

Here is where the restoration begins. I don’t like that dull green door. I’ve decided in my own volition that the door should be blue. So, I’ve made it blue.

The surface of the walkway in front of the door needs to be constructed, so I’ve done enough of that to satisfy my vision for the final photo.

And the plinth on which the pseudo-column to the right sits has to be constructed in this renovation…so, I’m on it.

Well, in my final crop of the image, it turns out that I didn’t need all of that pavement after all, but the plinth work was essential.

The Final Image

In the final photo, I wanted it to look like the palazzo is occupied and that someone is at home, waiting for you and me to drop by for an apertivo…and from last week’s article, you should now know what that is, right? So, I borrowed backlit lights above the door from another photo of Venice.

So, now you’ve seen behind the curtain in the transformation of a blah green door, to evening blue.

That’s it for today’s rather simple restoration of an ancient Venetian doorway. If you are interested in seeing more magical door and window transformations, check out my Index of Articles and scroll way down on the right-hand list to find, “Italy-Photo Transformations”.

I’ll see you next week to find out what the antipasto course is all about in Italian dining. Until then, I say…

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Eating in Italy - The Courses & Apertivo

Index of Articles

Today we begin a journey into the the world’s most popular food — Italian food. We’ll start with the courses one might expect to see on a menu in Italy.

Oh the Places You’ll Eat…

First, let’s recognize that there are several types of eating establishments in Italy. In the U.S., ours are not as distinctly recognized. For instance, we subjectively use the words “café” to describe a restaurant of a certain style, as there is not really much of an objective definition. And we use the word “restaurant” to describe almost any place we eat. It’s a bit different in Italia.

Here are some of the types of eating establishments in Italy:

Bar or Caffé — These are open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner. You will have the opportunity to order coffee (caffé), soft drinks (analcolico), wine (vino), and cocktails (cocktail or apertivo). So, let’s not think of an Italian stand-alone “bar” as we usually do in the US, where it is typically just a place for beer, wine and cocktails. An Italian bar is where you go in the morning to get your coffee, say good morning (buon giorno) to neighbors and sit to sip and read a newspaper (giornale)…ahem, or look at your phone (telefonino), I guess.

Osteria — A bit more formal than a bar. Often family owned serving simple wines and a limited food menu of pasta and a couple of meat dishes. The menu may be printed, on a blackboard, or recited by the server. Your wine glass may be filled from a spigot.

Trattoria — Generally much less formal than a ristorante, but more formal than an osteria. Think of a trattoria as a diner or café. Expect casual, modest, low priced, wine by the decanter, and regional foods.

Ristorante — We are now getting into more of a fine-dining category. Expect a tablecloth, extensive menus, upscale waitstaff, and finer wines. Oh, and don’t forget that you’ll be paying more.

Pizzeria — As it sounds, it’s an Italian pizza joint. Hopefully, you will find a wood-fired oven. We like an inexpensive Chianti with our pizza…no need for an expensive bottle of wine here.

Paninoteca — If you want a quick bite for lunch, the sandwich shops of Italy are excellent. Great bread? Yep. Great meats and cheeses? Yep. Expensive? Nope. Maybe accompanied by a Coca-Cola Lite (aka Diet Coke).

Gelateria — Man oh man…do we love a good gelato…and Italy has the best…obviously. Expect flavors that you will not get in American ice cream selections. Exotic berries, hard-to-find nuts, yum. Not open for breakfast, but do expect them to be open late into the evening.

So, those are the places you will eat. Now, what’s on the menu?

What’s on the Menu?

In the U.S. we usually see appetizers, soups & salads, entrées, and desserts. We expect to have access to a pre-dinner cocktail, and wine or beer during dinner. Coffee? Sure, either with or without dessert.

Understand that the Italian menu may not display each of the words below, but they are there in the minds of the Italians as they go about dining. For example, does the U.S. dinner menu at your favorite restaurant with a bar even mention that cocktails are available? Probably not, though there may be a separate, special drink menu available. Yet, you know that the predinner cocktails are available, and that the bartender will know how to make what you want. So, here are the typical ‘courses’ you might expect, either on a menu or just in the head of the Italian diner.

The apertivo (plural is apertivi, and please note that it’s not an appetizer, but a drink), antipasto (plural is antipasti), primo (plural is primi, which is usually what will be on a menu), secondo (plural is secondi, which is usually what will be on the menu), contorno (plural contorni), and dolci (the singular of dolco or ‘sweet’, is not generally used).

Today’s article will focus on just the apertivo. You’ll have to wait in sweet anticipation for the dolci!

Apertivo (pl Apertivi)

In Italy, let’s start with an apertivo, or predinner drink. When you think of a predinner drink, you probably think of ‘cocktail’, and you may be envisioning a Whiskey Sour, Martini, Cosmopolitan, Gin & Tonic, Margarita, or one of hundreds of other mixed drinks. The traditional pre-meal apertivi are a bit simpler, with long histories, and with ingredients made with herbs — giving the apertivi a bit of a bitter flavor when imbibed on its own. So, on their own, they are not high in alcohol. Some are sipped, and others are mixed with simple accompaniments.

And, please note that I am not promoting the use of alcohol, but reporting on what those Italians are reportedly doing.

Here are a few apertivi that you will find during your Italian journeys and dining.

CYNAR

How about a Cynar? Made from 13 herbs and plants, predominant among which is the artichoke (What, you say?! Yes! I say — artichoke!), from which the drink derives its name in Latin. It’s dark brown, and reportedly has a bittersweet flavor.

Here’s how an Italian might drink it (From Difford’s Guide)

2 oz Cynar
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
Juice of squeezed lemon wedge
3 dashes Orange Bitters
Lemon peel twist

They are so proud of the artichoke that there is one on the label of the bottle.

CAMPARI

There is no more beautiful Italian drink than a Campari and soda with lime. Brilliant red and sparkling. Go ahead and take a taste. Wow, did your lips stick to your teeth?

Campari is a dry, bitter, beautifully bright red liquor that was invented at the same time Italy became a country, about 85 years after the United States did. Before traveling to Italy, I might take a small sip of Campari now and then “to build up an immunity” to it’s bitter taste. It is usually used as an ingredient of the Negroni cocktail (gin and vermouth with Campari). But even in a cocktail, you won’t forget that you’re drinking a unique apertivo. Campari’s less bitter cousin is Aperol, which is next.

APEROL

A spritz made with Aperol, anyone? Yes, please. One of Italy’s go-to summer drinks…and it’s become popular at our house because of it’s low alcohol content. Oranges are in Aperol’s preparation, though you will also find gentian, rhubarb, and cinchona, among its ingredients. Take a bit of prosecco, add some white wine and Aperol, and now you have a refreshing Aperol spritz!

A spritz was primarily an Austrian and northern Italian drink (Veneto, Friuli and the Trentino-Alto Adige), but it has migrated to all of Italy and now, the world. The term ‘spritz’ came from the Austrian "Gespritzter" (think of a spritzer that spritzes water on your plants). You may remember that prior to Italy becoming Italy, they had a strong affiliation with Austria. To stay alert whilst imbibing, Austrian soldiers would ask for a spritz of water in their wine to dilute its effects. Thus ends our history lesson for today.

GALLIANO

Galliano is a key ingredient to a Harvey Wallbanger, which is pretty much unheard of since the 70s. You’ll notice a hint of anise, along with several other ingredients.

The Harvey Wallbanger of the 70s is made with Vodka, orange juice and Galliano. Here’s the recipe.

I have no idea how an Italian might partake Galliano as an apertivo. If you are an Italian, please weigh in on this.

VERMOUTH

For you martini fans, you’ll be familiar with Vermouth.

I’m told that a very-dry martini is made by pouring gin into a glass whilst looking at the Vermouth bottle.

You need to know that Vermouth was invented right there in Italy in 1786 in Turin.

Before purchasing a Vermouth, you must decide between a sweet Vermouth, or a dry Vermouth (a less-sweet version).

Wine as an Apertivo

Of course you can have a glass of wine as an apertivo. Whether it is vino rosso (red wine), vino bianco (white wine), or the more modern vino rosato (rose wine), you will enjoy most any wine that you are served in Italy. We have had a glass of wine served from a spigot in a simple osteria, a carafe at trattorie, and from the bottle at many other dining places.

You want proof that one can enjoy a glass of wine as an apertivo? Here we are on the island of Isola dei Pescatori on Lake Maggiore. We are dining at Ristorante Verbano, and we are happy. It’s not necessarily because of the wine, but we are definitely happy. We find ourselves that way most of the time whilst we are in Italy. Go figure.

Here’s the thing…and that thing is that in Italy, they take great pride in their wine (amongst other things), and a proprietor will refuse to serve you an inferior wine *. So, other than that one experience where we were forewarned, wine in Italy has been exceptional, wherever we may have been dining.

*Except at one place in Venice…actually one of the premier Venetian ristorante…but the manager did say that we were probably not going to like it…and we didn’t…and after taking a few sips, Leslie said, “Non, we are not drinking this wine”, and the rest of us said, “Thank goodness someone said something!”…and as promised, the manager replaced that bottle of wine with a very pleasant one. The moral of the story: when in Italy, don’t panic…someone will take care of you, as promised.

Bottom line: a glass of wine in Italy makes a great apertivo to start your dining experience!

So, our appetite has been wetted whetted with an apertivo. Let’s get a bite to eat. Next time, we look at the Antipasto. Meanwhile, I may have a sip of Campari, just to build up an immunity for the next time we find ourselves in wonderful Italy.

Once again I say…

Ciao for now,

Steve

Transforming a Lubriano Door

Index of Articles

This transformation is dedicated to my dear friend Diana Armstrong. She and her husband David were adventurous souls who followed a dream that many of us have…they bought a place in Italy! And not just any place.

They have a beautifully charming home in Lubriano, Italy, where she spends time looking out at this view of the hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio. Here, she writes her beautiful books about Italian life, her father’s war, and cooking. If you are a late comer to my articles of Italy, please take a moment to see more about her life and accomplishments in my 2016 article titled, “Covering for Friends”.

Much of the charm of the Armstrong’s compound comes from the fact that their residence is part of a converted, 400-year-old monastery. In her first book, "Somewhere South of Tuscany: 5 Years in a Four-Cat Town" (2010), Diana tells the story of how they came upon, purchased, and renovated their home. In her second book, “A Winding Path to Umbria: The Silent Bridge of Time” (2016), we learn that her father was within that very same view, as he was part of the allied forces who fought to take that town.

The Door in Lubriano

Diana, you most likely know this door well…but as you will see, it is in better shape in my version, than in reality.

You pass by this door as you turn right out of your house toward Piazza Col di Lana…it’s just down a bit on the left. Specifically, it is number 2 Via Roma.

Here we see number 2 in all of it’s faded glory. Time, the weather, and neglect have left this once-proud door in very poor shape. In just moments, I plan to rectify that situation.

What do I need to do? Well, as is usual, I want to get rid of the more modern elements in this snapshot. For instance, the address plaque needs to go, as does the chain and padlock. How about that stopgap measure in the form of cardboard? That most definitely has to go bye-bye.

Stage One: Misplaced Artifacts Removed

Now…no cardboard, no chain and lock, and no address plaque.

Step 2: A Bit of Contrast and Saturation

Step 3: A Bit of Red Paint

The door is definitely old, so it will remain in a weathered condition, but I just don’t like that yellow-orange. Let’s go with a bit of red.

Step 4: Mood and Patina

Now were getting somewhere.

The Final Step

I like to put my transformed door and window photos into an 8x10 aspect ratio. The previous photos were too tall and skinny. To fit the photo into my desired 8x10, I had to add a bit to each side of the door to make the photo wider. So, I did just that.

Now, here is the final photo. It seems to be in the twilight hours, as it looks to be getting dark on Via Roma. Things seem to be much better now…maybe the owners would like me to come over to sand away that old paint and then paint the door anew. All they have to do is ask.

There you have it readers. And Diana, as you pass by, I’m sure that you won’t see that door in the same light, again.

Until next time…

Ciao for now,

Steve

Italy in 3-1/2 Minutes

Index of Articles

I was reviewing older posts recently and came across one on which I spent a great deal of time. It dealt with a video embedded in a 2015 article about Traveling With Friends.

I realized that, at the time of publication, over half of you were not subscribed to my Italy, Our Italy articles. So I thought, “OK, I’ll put it out for all of you to enjoy”. So, thought was translated to action, and here you have it.

Be sure you watch with sound available, as it is integral to the video. I hope you enjoy it.

[And Pam, in addition to several smiling faces of Italy, you’ll see a snippet in the video with your own smiling face!]

It was a lot of fun putting this video together…and it let me relive all of those fun moments with our dear friends, Debbie and Scott.

Is it time to create your own fabulous moments in Italy? Let’s do it!

Ciao for now,

Steve

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