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Michelin-Starred Experiences

The original Michelin Red Guide, French Edition

The original Michelin Red Guide, French Edition

Last week I explained how the Michelin stars are awarded to restaurants in Italy…and I also explained that many of our favorite Italy restaurants aren’t even in the Michelin guide at all.

But today, I want to show you what you can expect when you dine at a starred restaurant in Italy. And, since I am writing this article, what I personally expect for my own dining experience ,so that my peculiar, I mean particular, expectations are met…or even exceeded.

So, here is what the Burketts expect as they dine with Italian stars!


First is Dressing Up

We like to dress up a bit when dining at a nice restaurant in Italy…and we don’t want to feel out of place because we did so. Three stars? Take the opportunity to get spiffed up.

At La Pergola with the Kennedys

And, speaking of dressing up, here is a photo of the two dapper gentlemen who started the Michelin guide, as well as the Michelin tire company…André and Édouard Michelin.

André and Édouard Michelin


The View

If the evening is to be special, then a meal with a view would be nice. These are views from starred restaurants that we’ve visited.


Bread!

That’s right, bread! I tend to judge an Italian dining establishment by their bread. It needs to be nice and crusty. Grisini, or breadsticks, need to be house-made, not wrapped in a waxy, paper envelope. Here are examples of 3-star breads.


Presentation

This involves more than plating…it is how the food might be presented before plating, like this nice branzino presented by Elizabette at La Terrazza Danieli, just before it was fileted and deboned for serving. By the way, it is really a lot better looking after plating…and it tastes like no other seafood you’ve had.


Smiling Faces

I believe that you can judge a person by the way one treats the waitstaff at a restaurant. And, it’s much easier to relate to a smiling face, isn’t it?


A Bit of Music?

How about live music…and, with a smiling face, too…double your pleasure! And, it’s not often we’ve found such an amenity.

Piano at Poggio Rosso


Table Settings

Of course a nice table is appreciated. And what a surprise it was to find an embroidered charger at our table at Ravello’s Il Flauto di Pan.


The Food

This is pretty much why we came, right? I know, the other things are nice, but the food is the star of the starred show.


Endings

Dessert has a special place in our dining experience. There are desserts in the ‘Food’ grouping above, but this one from La Caravella dal 1959 in Amalfi gets special attention. We thought this soufflé too large for two people when presented, but two was just too perfect not to finish. Being a soufflé, it was really lite…seriously…please don’t judge…you had to be there to appreciate it.


What’s All That Stuff on the Plate?

In my opinion, some restaurants on the Michelin-starred list try a bit too hard to embellish the plates with little dots of this-and-that (we call them ‘plops’), and special plates that are not necessary to one’s dining enjoyment. You will note a bit of simplicity in the photos of ‘Food’ above. Nice and clean.

However, here are a few Michelin-starred plates that we’ve been offered along the way where we think things were a bit messy and they were trying a bit too hard to impress, but didn’t. Give me the plating at a Cracker Barrel restaurant and I would have been happier.


A Parting Shot

But what about a Michelin-starred restaurant in the morning? Here is my selection from a typical buffet breakfast at Poggio Rosso at the fabulous Borgo San Felice. We took our breakfast with a mimosa out to the terrace and dreamed of coming back!

Breakfast at San Felice - is it too heavy with the bread…I don’t think so


So, there you see a few of the things that Ellen and I feel make up a scrumptious evening…or breakfast. But you know what? These meals are missing one thing…and that’s you.

We love to travel with friends, building memories along the way that we can reminisce about for years to come. I sincerely hope that you can join us in the future at a restaurant of Italy…or anywhere in the world, actually.

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Eat Here: La Pergola

Index of Articles

[This is the first of 3 consecutive articles vis-à-vis Michelin-starred restaurants]

Italy…

  • The people…ahh.

  • The land…ahh.

  • The wine…ahh.

  • The food…ahhhhhhh!

La Pergola

La Pergola

Welcome to Italy…it has all that the heart could desire. And as you’ve gathered from the ahhs, above…the food has a special place in our hearts…and stomachs.

There are many, many nice restaurants in Italy, and we’ve been to a good number. However, La Pergola has provided fond memories for the past 10 years.


 

Email Transcript between Signore Burkett (me) and the Maître d’ of La Pergola

Me - August 10, 2012: Dear sirs, I would like to make a reservation for dinner for the evening of September 29, 2012 at 7:00pm.

Maitre d’ response: Signore Burkett, you must understand that for one to make a reservation at La Pergola, one must do this at least four months in advance. We are so sorry.


Maitre d’ - August 12, 2012: Signore Burkett, we are pleased to let you know that a cancellation has occurred at La Pergola for the night of September 29, 2012, this being a most uncommon occurrence, for which we are most confused. Should you still desire to dine with us, please reply with your intentions. And, please provide us your social-security number so that we may kindly check your credit score.

Me: Yes. Sure. Of course. Thank you. We will see you at 7:00pm on September 29th.


Maitre d’ - August 18, 2012: Signore Burkett, based on your credit score, please be sure that your credit card has sufficient funds for your visit to La Pergola.


 

I may have embellished a bit in jest on that email exchange, but you do get the gist…we were negated, and then affirmed. And, the Maître d’ didn’t say most of that, of course…though we probably had to provide a credit card number to guarantee our reservation…not uncommon.


La Pergola

So, where exactly is La Pergola? Good question. It is in Rome. To be exact, it sits on a hill less than a mile due north of the Vatican. It is located in the Waldorf-Astoria Cavalieri Hotel. As seen in this aerial photo, it is the roof-top terrace within the green box, atop the hotel.


I will present La Pergola to you along a timeline of our evening. The evening began at 7:00pm and ended at 10:00pm. This is typical of nice restaurants…particularly in Europe.

What you will see is not typical of most restaurants in Italy. La Pergola is in the rarified atmosphere of Michelin 3-starred restaurants in Italy, of which there are only 11 in the entire country. Expect slow. Expect numerous, and thus smaller, portions. Expect outstanding service. Expect outstanding taste, texture and presentation. And, when Il Conto (the bill) comes, expect it to be a bit larger than normal…but you did check your credit card balance, as suggested, right. You get the picture.

Next week we’ll look at how Michelin rates restaurants…and then we’ll look at some ways for garnering a star or two, or three.


7:00 - The Terrace

We arrived promptly at 7:00pm and we were taken to the terrace for cocktails and light appetizers. The view was outstanding.

Here you can see some of those exquisite grounds of the Cavalieri.

Why those three folks are swimming laps and not dining at La Pergola, I have no idea. Well, maybe I do have an idea…maybe they didn’t write for a reservation early enough!

I mentioned the setting overlooking the Vatican…and here you see the dome of St Peter’s in the early evening.

As we are certainly dressed for the occasion, it’s time for a couple of couple photos. And no, I’m not tickling Ellen…eight-years later, I don’t seem to remember what has amused her. And, Debbie and Scott look really nice.


7:15 - First Toast

As we sat on the terrace, we had our first toast…prosecco for the ladies, a martini for Scott, and a Negroni for myself.

Light appetizers were served whilst we sat enjoying the view from the terrace. Very tasty, indeed. And note the plating, including the special holder for those round crackers. This sort of accessory seems to be a feature, or requirement, for garnering 3 stars.

As our table is ready, it’s time for us to go inside.


7:45 - This is Us

We are, from left to right, Ellen, me (Signore Burkett), Scott, and Debbie Kennedy.

The Burketts and the Kennedys


7:50 - The Menu

There is this really neat thing about menus in the nicer restaurants of Italy…at least I think it’s neat…but I guess I’m not part of this modern, non-chivalrous era…and more likely I’m part of the problem. The point of this photo is to show you that (using the dessert menu as an example), while the men’s menu has prices, the lady’s menu above it, does not.

Am I some sort of an old-fashioned pig for thinking that this is, in some way, charming? For thinking that there is a significant and wonderful difference between women and men? For thinking that it’s fun to celebrate that difference in small ways? If so, then ‘oink oink!’ (which I will not bother to translate in this setting…ladies are, after all, reading this article, too).

Not that you can read it all that well, but here is the dinner menu…obviously belonging to one of us gentlemen at the table.


8:00 - Amuse Bouche

I thought it was something about an amusing bush, but the waiter said, ‘No signore, it is a small complimentary appetizer offered at some of the finest restaurants’. OK, now we know. I really can’t remember what it was…but it was surely very tasty…and not a bit amusing…and quite the plating, right?

Now is a good time to show you how our table was decorated with a couple of vases of flowers, and a couple of great friends. And, don’t miss those fabulous wine glasses…very light, classy and made for enjoying a heady red wine.


8:15 - Appetizers

I wish I could remember what we were eating, as it looks really good.


8:40 - Entrées

While we are awaiting those entrées, Debbie does a fabulous job of showing us how to hold one of the beautiful wine glasses…and note that this one is different that what you had seen above…a tulip shape…thus a burgundy, perhaps?

Once again, I have failed to document each item that arrived at our table…my bad. But here is what I did manage to photograph before getting down to serous business.


9:15 - Look at Ellen Because She Looks Absolutely Radiant


9:23 - A Pre-Dessert Dessert

Was this a palate cleanser? I believe it was! Palate cleansers are designed to remove any lingering flavors from the mouth so that the next course may be enjoyed…and as the next course was dessert, this was very important.


9:25 - Our Just Desserts

Funny thing about the desserts. Debbie, Scott, and I each had our individual, yummy and scrumptious, desserts. Ellen saw something on her menu (the one without prices, remember?) that said ‘Grand Dessert’, and as everything so far had been grand, and wanting it to stay that way, that’s what she ordered. We lost track of how many plates came her way, but we think it was nine, perhaps…really, nine. It’s one of those little things that make for great memories…’Remember that time in Rome when Ellen got those nine desserts?!’

That third dessert from the left? There was enough foam on Debbie’s plate to put out a fire!

Scott’s dessert was very cool, so it gets special attention…an iced sphere of pomegranate with gianduia cream poured over…and an itsy-bitsy cannelloni filled with a salty pine-seed Chantilly.


9:40 - More Wine?

We do appreciate…and desire…a nice dessert wine, and this one was nice, indeed.


9:57 - A Post-Dessert Dessert

So, this is one of those restaurants that gives you a sweet, parting gift. It is often a chocolate truffle that you can eat whilst back at your hotel. But, this one had to be enjoyed right on the spot.


10:00 - Blow Out the Candles, the Party’s Over…

That’s right. The candles have burned down and its time to go. But, that’s ok, we have a busy day in Rome tomorrow…lots to see and do…and eat…and drink.


 

7:45pm, April 20, 2015 - Amsterdam - A Short Diversion

I know, I know, it’s not polite to talk about The Netherlands amongst people who want to talk and read about Italy. But, I have to share this fine-dining experience with you.

We were eating at Johannes in Amsterdam one fine evening in April, 2015…the flowers are at their peak then, so go!

Anyway, we had our first of several courses as seen here. A cute little pedestal thingie upon which were three most tasty treats.

Noticing that we had consumed course number one, our waitress came by to ask if we were ready for course number two.

‘Of course!’ we said.

She began turning over our course-number-one pedestal thingies and what was embedded up under the pedestal…course number two, of course!

Amazing.


That’s it folks. A fabulous meal with friends that we will remember for the rest of our years. We’ve most definitely talked about it over the past eight years.

Would we go back? Under one condition…we want you to be with us…and I just happen to have a couple of new credit cards to try out!

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Eat Here: Da Divo

This hidden gem is in an out-of-the-way part of Siena, as you can see in the photo, below. If you can find Via Franciosa, look for number ‘25’. Making your way from the Piazza del Campo (at top left) to the Duomo (cathedral), you are almost there.

The red arrow marks the location of Da Divo

The entrance to Da Divo

The entrance to Da Divo

The unassuming entrance from the small street to Da Divo does not reveal what lies within…and below.

Scott suggests that it’s time to come in and eat

Da Divo is a most interesting restaurant. Its history is that it used to be an Etruscan dwelling or tomb. Going once again to a restaurant’s website, we see the description of their restaurant as “To dine in history of a suggestive and unique atmosphere, which goes from the Middle Ages to the Etruscans”. So, there you have it…right?


The Layout

Photo taken from subterranean level 1

After you enter through the street-level entrance of the restaurant, you will find three subterranean levels of the restaurant. In this photo, I am standing on the first subterranean level, with the entrance level to the top right. Down the steps to the left is the second subterranean level, and then further down (where the bare-bulb light glows) is the third subterranean level.

 
DSC3662.jpg

This is underground level two of Da Divo.

 

Photo taken from level 3, showing level 4

In this photo, you see the lowest, or third subterranean level, with couples enjoying the quiet atmosphere.


Dinner Time

OK, enough about the layout of the multi-level restaurant. Before we move to the food, it is time for that time-honored toast to friends, both present and absent…which includes you!

Here is a sampling of the good eats you find at Da Divo.

Cooked rice of risotto gathering up cheesy goodness

Here we had our first look at a unique way to make risotto. Normally, one will stir in Parmesan cheese when the rice is completely cooked. However, here at Da Divo, we see that the cooked rice is placed into a scooped out wheel of Parmesan cheese, gathering cheesy goodness as the rice is stirred. Man-oh-man…it was really yummy!


A Parting Glance

As we enjoyed our meal at Da Divo, I made the mistake of looking up. What I saw was the structural system that was holding up the roof. I would suggest that it has been doing its job for many, many years…so, don’t worry about the structural integrity as you dine. And, be sure to try the risotto.

The roof has been steadily sitting there for many years…not to worry


So, there you have one more meal in beautiful and tasty Italy. As you sit watching your risotto being stirred whilst it is in that scooped out wheel of Parmesan, look up at the face of the one doing the stirring…it just may be me!

Ciao for now,

Steve

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Eat Here: Osteria and Trattoria Caprini

What a night! It was magical. Tonight, we were welcomed into an Italian family!

Because we had both an osteria and a trattoria experience, I am breaking this article into two sections. Section1 focuses on Osteria Caprini, while Section 2 is about Trattoria Caprini.

To avoid a bit of confusion between the osteria part of this establishment, and the trattoria part, I’ll simply refer to the overall establishment of both the osteria and trattoria as ‘Caprini’…after all, they are both in the same building…just different doors.


Caprini’s Beginnings

In 1907, two young newlyweds decided to open Caprini, serving traditional dishes and Valpolicella wine in a simple and unpretentious manner. Four generations later, Caprini is still run by the same family…both as an osteria and a trattoria.

Torbe di Negrar is a small hill town surrounded by vineyards. Caprini is designated within the red circle on this aerial view.

Untitled-1.jpg

Osteria Caprini

First, an osteria is like a tavern or corner pub. The food dishes are simple and the atmosphere is unpretentious. In other words, it’s casual and typically delish, but the menu is rather short.

We parked our rental car across the street from Trattoria Caprini in the Valpolicella-area hill town of Torbe di Negrar.  Our intent was to go immediately to dinner at Trattoria Caprini, but as we crossed the street we were hailed with “Come down here!” from a small crowd outside the door to Osteria Caprini.  Really, that’s what they were shouting over-and-over — “Come down here!”. What to do? We were in no hurry, so we said, “Sure!”, and we went down there to the entrance to Osteria Caprini.

What we found was Csaba’s birthday party. That’s Csaba to the left in this photo.

Csaba, Dennis, Patty and others were celebrating, and asked the four of us to celebrate with them.  So, we did. Wine was offered and wine was gladly accepted.

 

Csaba is one of those remarkable people that you are instantly drawn to…a great smile and a welcoming spirit. Hungarian citizen Csaba works at the local NATO facility. Dennis retired from said facility awhile back. Patty is Dennis’ wife. Though they are Americans, Dennis and Patty have a house nearby…as well as this itsy-bitsy car that I’m inspecting.

 

We felt so much at home. We were among old friends, newly found for the first time. And, we were warmly welcomed with copious toasts of wine. It’s impolite to refuse wine, isn’t it? Plus, you know what the Romans say, right? “When in Italy, do what the Italians do!”

Here is wife Ellen, Patty, and sister-in-law Leslie.

 

And, behind the osteria’s bar was beautiful Maria (aka Mama Maria). She’s run the bar for many, many years. This lovely octogenarian was an excellent hostess.

 

See this early 20th century photo taken in front of Caprini? That’s baby Maria sitting in her mother’s lap!

 

We fell in love with Mama Maria because of her charm, graciousness and spirit. But also because she poured us a glass of Amarone produced by her husband and son.

This Corte Martini Amarone knocked our socks off! Really – one moment we had on socks, and the next moment, they were gone!

This wine was everything that brother-in-law Craig and I had been looking for in our two weeks in northern Italy -- put away the Barolo and pour us another glass of this awesome Corte Martini Amarone! [A further description of this Amarone and its equally outstanding Recioto partner will have to wait for another article.]

Also shown in the photo is the smaller bottle of Recioto della Valpolicella, which is a very tasty dessert wine.

 

Here are Csaba, Craig, me, and Dennis.

Are our glasses empty? Yes. That means it’s time for a refill.

 

Many celebratory things were uttered as we toasted and re-toasted Csaba’s birthday!

 

After an hour in the osteria, we bid Csaba and friends a final “Happy Birthday!”. And, with hugs all around, we said good bye to our new friends as we headed upstairs to dinner at Trattoria Caprini. It turned out that our pleasant evening was to continue.


Trattoria Caprini

The formality — or lack thereof — of a trattoria is much like that of an osteria, but the menu is more extensive and the decor is kicked up a notch.

Sergio, the family member who supervises the dining room and wine cellar led us through the menu and helped us make our decisions. My selection was also the local favorite of Lasagnette al Ragu della Pierina (that’s pasta with Pierina’s famous meat sauce).  I dove right in and had eaten the whole thing before I remembered that I was going to photograph this dish! Dang! Trust me – it looked as good as it tasted.

Here are a couple of photos of other dishes eaten at our table.

The wine we ordered with dinner? Of course it was the Corte Martini Amarone. We just couldn’t stop toasting! We had now moved into the wine-drinking-excuse toasts.

 

Here you see brother-in-law Craig sitting beneath a painting of a part of the town of Torbe di Negrar. Trattoria Caprini is the building with the green awning on the left.

 

As mentioned in my article titled Eat Here: Enoteca della Valpolicella, we had purchased a book of Italian recipes during our trip. Lo and behold, the recipe for Pierina’s Lasagnette al Ragu Della Pierina is in that cook book. As we just happened to have it with us, we asked Pierina to autograph our copy, which she graciously did.

Here is chef Pierina posing with Leslie and Ellen.

 

And, once again, we get an autograph from an outstanding chef.

 

And surprise of surprises, that’s Pierina herself on the cover of our cookbook, making her homemade lasagnette pasta.

You can order this cookbook here — be sure to get the Italian-English version.

 

Do you have meals that you will always remember? Evenings where magic surely played a part in your enjoyment? This evening – with Csaba’s birthday party, Mama Maria’s charm and Pierina’s great food – is one of those for the four of us.

I hope that you can make your way 11 miles north of Verona to the town of Torbe di Negrar so that you can meet Maria, Sergio, Pierina and the rest of the family. And, if you are there on October 2nd, you will surely find Csaba and friends in the osteria celebrating another birthday. Hopefully, we’ll be there too. After all, we need to go back to get our socks!

Ciao for now,

Steve

p.s. Thanks to Silvia of Salvaterra Winery for recommending Trattoria Caprini

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Eat Here: Donna Selvatica in Neive

Index of Articles

You’ve heard of the term, “A Diamond in the Rough”, which refers to something special surrounded by something not so special. I was going to suggest that for a subtitle for this article, but it just doesn’t work. The Ristorante Donna Selvatica is surely a diamond, but it doesn’t sit in a rough…it sits in a charming hillside town called Neive.

So, let’s say that Donna Selvatica is a diamond on a golden crown, instead.

We happened upon this place within a place after a long afternoon of wining at Michele Chiarlo’s Le Orme vineyards and Calamandrana winery…I know, someone has to do it, so we gave of ourselves for each of you. And, you’re welcome.

The folks of Neive finally had something to be proud of when their last homegrown countess, Countess Maria Vittoria, became Queen of Spain

As just mentioned, we spent the afternoon touring the Michele Chiarlo vineyards, winery, and tasting room (more on that in a future article). It was early evening as we headed west to our lodgings at Villa Gremi. We had not researched, or even thought about, dinner because we were so intrigued with our afternoon activities. So wife Ellen took to Google as we headed west and suddenly shouted out, “Turn right at the next road!”. Being well trained, I turned right at the next road. This road led to heretofore unheard of Neive. Having interpreted the command to, “Park right here!” to mean park right here, I parked. Who says I never listen?!

Walking the cobblestone and brick-paved streets of Neive soon led us to Ristorante Donna Selvatica. As we arrived well before the opening hour of 19:00 (aka 7:00pm), we made a reservation for patio dining and we explored Neive, as described a bit further in this article.

We really liked this restaurant…the location, the view, the ambiance, the service, the wine, the food…everything.

The location is pretty much in the center of Neive, as can be seen in the aerial view a bit further down the page.

 

But the view…magnificent. The rolling, vine-covered hills go on and on, with the small town of Barbaresco sitting mid-distance.

 

This closeup view from our table provides detail of the famous Barbaresco Tower, and an elevator ride to its top continues those magnificent views.

 

For our nightly…daily…frequent…toast, we chose a white wine called Arneis. We had never heard of Arneis until our afternoon tour at Michele Chiarlo, which happens to also produce this crisp, minerally-yet-light wine. The grapes are grown in the Roero area of Piemonte. It is now our favorite white wine of Italy.

Those are in-laws Craig and Leslie Johnson toasting on the patio.

 

The homemade ravioli pasta with mountain butter and 36-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano is poised and ready to be eaten.

 

Might this be a mix of potato gnocchi pasta on Castelmagno-cheese cream, and sliced Castelmagno cheese with honeydew honey, jams and Langa Bio hazelnuts? Yes, I believe so. It’s like eating a cheese-covered cloud.

 

At this point I was in a food coma of some sort, so I don’t remember exactly what this dish is. But, it appears to be duck fixed a couple of ways — one of which is wrapped in pancetta. I’ll find out exactly what it was next time I’m there.

 

You know how sometimes you don’t have room to order dessert, but they bring you some anyway? I think that’s what this is.

 

If you are a grappa fan, and I’m thinking that one-in-a-hundred of you might be, they have dozens from which to choose.

 

Here you can click to see an actual Italian/English menu from Donna Selvatica >>>

 

But before we depart, I need to tell you what ‘Donna Selvatica’ translates to in English. That would be ‘Wild Woman’. You don’t have to be/take a wild woman to this restaurant; however, Craig and I found that it helps. We love our own wild women!


The Town of Neive

While waiting to eat at Donna Selvatica, we explored to tiny town of Neive.

Like many of the small hill towns of the Piemonte, this one sits on a hill — naturally. The hill upon which it sits is about 4 miles northeast of Alba, which is one of the towns-of-considerable-size in the Piemonte.

Neive is a very small town. This photo shows its extent. Ristorante Donna Selvatica is within the red oval.

 

Today, things are quiet in Neive, but it hasn’t always been that way. Witness the fate of the nice Castle of Neive that used to stand here proud. The Neivesi had a hard time of it in 1274 because both the communes of Alba and Asti wanted that little hill-top town as their own. The Albesi and Astigiani met for battle, and since neither could pull off the heist of the town, it seems that one or both of them destroyed the Castle of Neive in spite. But did they have to take it out on the nice folks of Neive?!

Then, in the next century they were totally embarrassed when Giangaleazzo Visconti’s daughter Valentina married the Duke of Orleans and the town was given up by her father as her dowry. And I thought an envelope with cash and some jewels were customary.

A couple of centuries later Neive went to the House of Savoy, and then to the French for 17 years before being returned to the House of Savoy.  In 1618, Neive became a fief assigned to Count Vittorio Amedeo Dal Pozzo, who assumed the title of First Count of Neive. The folks of Neive finally had something to be proud of when their last homegrown countess, Countess Maria Vittoria became Queen of Spain.

I’m guessing that after all of that, they would just like to be left alone. But go anyway, because in addition to Donna Selvatica there is a particularly nice little shop there.


Fili di Fantasia translated to English is Fantasy Threads.

We were really surprised to find this nice shop of things with threads open at a late hour — and frankly that it existed at all on its itsy-bitsy street.

Wife Ellen and Sis-in-law Leslie were quite pleased with this little shop.

 

And, I was quite pleased with the view from the back balcony.

And yes, purchases were made.


Strolling Neive

We found the brick pavers to be a bit easier on the feet than the cobbles, but either are more charming than the typical asphalt pavement.

The church of Saints Peter and Paul existed in the 12th century, but was rebuilt to its present form in the 18th century. I was fortunate to capture in a gorgeous evening light.

 

The inside of the church is very peaceful with numerous artworks.

 

Here you see a typical home and garden. Note the soil. It is calcareous and is just what the enologist ordered for the growing of grape vines.

One would think its not so great for vegetable gardens, though.

 

Love the Italian roof tiles!

Wish I had them on my villa.

Wish I had a villa.

Wish I was even near a villa!

 

Though these people are not enjoying a meal at Donna Salvatica, they do look to be having a good time.

 

As we closed out our evening in Neive, we were treated to the lights of the surrounding hill-top towns, with Barbaresco prominently featured in the foreground.



 

We fondly remember our afternoon in Neive and our evening dinner at Ristorante Donna Selvatica. If you are in the area, I would recommend that you follow my wife’s advice and, “Turn right at the next road!”…you will not be disappointed…unless you are coming from the other direction, of course.

If we happen to be at Donna Selvatica at the same time one evening, I’ll gladly let you purchase the first bottle of Arneis…I’ll get the second.

Ciao for now,

Steve